UNZIPPED
A film review by James Berardinelli
Copyright 1995 James Berardinelli
RATING (0 TO 10): 7.4
United States, 1995 U.S. Availability: limited release 8/95 Running Length: 1:13 MPAA Classification: R (Profanity) Theatrical Aspect Ratio: 1.66:1
Featuring: Isaac Mizrahi, Nina Santisi, Sarah Mizrahi, Cindy Crawford, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Eartha Kitt, Sandra Bernhard, and others Director: Douglas Keeve Producer: Michael Alden Cinematography: Ellen Kuras U.S. Distributor: Miramax Films
UNZIPPED is a cinematic portrait of Isaac Mizrahi, an artist whose palette is fabric. Ostensibly, the film is a documentary, but use of that term requires stretching its meaning. Many scenes appear staged, and a great deal of cutting-and-pasting has been done in the editing room. The cinema verite effect is a conceit -- genuine spontaneity is at a premium, and everyone is aware of and playing to the camera (especially would-be actresses like Cindy Crawford). Director Douglas Keeve (who was Mizrahi's lover at the time) freely admits that he "couldn't care less about the truth" but was more interested in capturing "the spirit and love in Isaac and in fashion."
Despite violating nearly every rule of "legitimate" documentary film making, however, UNZIPPED is a remarkably enjoyable piece of entertainment. While it sheds only a little light on the behind-the-scenes world of the fashion industry, it presents a fascinating, if incomplete, picture of designer Mizrahi. This man is the perfect subject for this kind of study -- he's funny, energetic, and eminently quotable. He has unusual views on just about everything, from fashion ("It's about women not wanting to look like cows") to Mary Tyler Moore ("Between her and Jackie Kennedy, they shaped this country") to style ("It's almost impossible to have style nowadays without the right dogs").
UNZIPPED also gives a glimpse into the creative process by which Mizrahi turns an idea into a dress. It's almost certainly different that anyone would imagine. The designer draws on a variety of sources for his look, including NANOOK OF THE NORTH and old Bette Davis movies, then enlists the aid of a Ouija board to help form the collection. In particular, UNZIPPED traces Mizrahi's development of his Fall 1994 line from its inception in the Spring to the final fashion show, which highlights a number of prominent models, including Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Kate Bush, and Linda Evangelista.
On the technical side, a number of interesting choices were made in filming UNZIPPED. A variety of film stocks were used: Super 8, 16 mm black-and-white, and 35 mm color. There is a purpose to this beyond simple artiness -- the stock often serves as an emotional key to the movie, and, during the climactic fashion show, color is used to show the audience's perspective, while black-and-white is for the behind-the- scenes sequences. Nevertheless, some viewers will be put off by this treatment.
While UNZIPPED isn't an expose on the fashion industry per se, Keeve has enough clips of petulant models to make the viewer realize how tame Robert Altman was with READY TO WEAR. Overall, however, this movie is far more about Mizrahi than anything else, and only when viewed from that perspective does UNZIPPED succeed. When the designer declares that "everything is frustrating except designing clothes -- that's beautiful and liberating," it fits perfectly with the image of him that UNZIPPED has constructed.
- James Berardinelli (jberardinell@delphi.com)
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